The Forni glacier in the Italian Alps. The glacier has retreated 3.3 kilometers since the peak of its advance around 1860.

The Forni glacier in the Italian Alps. The glacier has retreated 3.3 kilometers since the peak of its advance around 1860. Luigi Avantaggiato

Photo Essay

As Italy’s Glaciers Recede, a Stunning World of Ice Is Being Lost

Photographer Luigi Avantaggiato has trekked high into the Italian Alps to document the melting of some of the world’s most studied glaciers. His images track the glaciers’ increasingly rapid retreat and capture the stark beauty of a land in transition as the ice disappears.

Like mountain glaciers worldwide, the glaciers of the Italian Alps are steadily melting away. Photographer Luigi Avantaggiato is documenting the disappearance of these magnificent rivers of ice, chronicling not just their wasting but also the impact of that melting on a pastoral way of life that has been intertwined with the glaciers for millennia.

In this photo essay, Avantaggiato focuses on the Forni Glacier, located between 8,500 and 12,000 feet in northeastern Italy. No other mountain range in the world has been as well studied for so long as the Alps — the Forni Glacier and nearby ice masses in Stelvio National Park have been the subject of more than a century of research. Relying on measurements and photographs dating back to the mid-19th century, scientists know that the Forni Glacier — the largest valley glacier in Italy — has retreated 3.3 kilometers (2 miles) since the peak of its advance around 1860. During that time, the total area of the Forni glacier has shrunk by nearly half.

The future looks even bleaker. With glacial melt in the Alps now rapidly accelerating, scientists forecast that the Forni Glacier will likely retain only 20 percent of its current volume by 2050 and could disappear altogether by the end of the century. A similar fate awaits glaciers throughout Europe, with half of the 4,000 glaciers in the Alps expected to disappear by 2050 and two-thirds expected to have lost all their ice by 2100, even if greenhouse gas emissions are cut to zero, according to a 2019 study.

As Avantaggiato’s images show, once the melting of an Alpine glacier crosses a tipping point, it enters a death spiral in which more and more dark, rocky debris — once covered by ice — is exposed, thus absorbing ever-greater amounts of solar energy, which further hastens melting.

Avantaggiato photographs the Italian glaciologists documenting this disappearing world of ice, as well as the shepherds, cheesemakers, and farmers who make a living in the Italian Alps, all dependent on the steady flow of glacial meltwater for their livelihoods. Rapid melting of the Forni and other glaciers in the region has caused damaging floods in recent years, but eventually that meltwater will slow and then disappear.

Avantaggiato says his work in the Italian Alps is his way of trying to show a wider audience that a force “so big and yet so invisible and lethal” is changing the face of the planet: “Glacier erosion is one of the most obvious signs that we need to set a new course for the future.”

Scroll down to see the images, or click on the photo below to launch a slideshow.


Tino Pietrogiovanna, a renowned Alpine mountaineer, leads a companion to the top of the Forni Glacier.

Tino Pietrogiovanna, a renowned Alpine mountaineer, leads a companion to the top of the Forni Glacier. Luigi Avantaggiato

Pietrogiovanna, 70, on the Forni Glacier. "I remember the first time I came here as a kid with my father, a mountain guide, about 60 years ago," he says. "The glacier was immense. It's a shame to see it like this today. You can explain how it was. We can see it in the photographs. But the grandeur and majesty that once was seen is missing."

Pietrogiovanna, 70, on the Forni Glacier. "I remember the first time I came here as a kid with my father, a mountain guide, about 60 years ago," he says. "The glacier was immense. It's a shame to see it like this today. You can explain how it was. We can see it in the photographs. But the grandeur and majesty that once was seen is missing." Luigi Avantaggiato

The Forni Glacier as it looked circa 1860 (left) and in 2010 (right). In 1867, the glacier covered 19 square kilometers; today, it has shrunk to 11 square kilometers. Scientists forecast that the glacier could disappear altogether by 2100.
The Forni Glacier as it looked circa 1860 (left) and in 2010 (right). In 1867, the glacier covered 19 square kilometers; today, it has shrunk to 11 square kilometers. Scientists forecast that the glacier could disappear altogether by 2100.

The Forni Glacier as it looked circa 1860 (left) and in 2010 (right). In 1867, the glacier covered 19 square kilometers; today, it has shrunk to 11 square kilometers. Scientists forecast that the glacier could disappear altogether by 2100. Angelo Vismara; Giuseppe Cola / Servizio Glaciologico Lombardo

Rocky debris liberated from melting ice gathers on the eastern front of the Forni Glacier.

Rocky debris liberated from melting ice gathers on the eastern front of the Forni Glacier. Luigi Avantaggiato

Glacial meltwater flows along the Cedéc valley near the Forni Glacier.

Glacial meltwater flows along the Cedéc valley near the Forni Glacier. Luigi Avantaggiato

Glaciologist Giuseppe Cola, 60, next to a meltwater stream inside the Forni Glacier. "When you enter the core of a glacier along the conduits and caves dug by meltwater," he says, "you are completely captivated by the spectacle that surrounds you."

Glaciologist Giuseppe Cola, 60, next to a meltwater stream inside the Forni Glacier. "When you enter the core of a glacier along the conduits and caves dug by meltwater," he says, "you are completely captivated by the spectacle that surrounds you." Luigi Avantaggiato

A lake fed by the melting of the Cedéc Glacier.

A lake fed by the melting of the Cedéc Glacier. Luigi Avantaggiato

The Frodolfo waterfall, fed by the melting of the Forni Glacier, flows toward the Forni Valley in northern Lombardy. Rapid melting of the region's glaciers has caused damaging floods in recent years, but eventually that meltwater will slow and then disappear, jeopardizing the area's pastoral way of life.

The Frodolfo waterfall, fed by the melting of the Forni Glacier, flows toward the Forni Valley in northern Lombardy. Rapid melting of the region's glaciers has caused damaging floods in recent years, but eventually that meltwater will slow and then disappear, jeopardizing the area's pastoral way of life. Luigi Avantaggiato

Filippo Pedranzini, 14, carries cheese produced at his family's dairy farm in the Forni Valley.

Filippo Pedranzini, 14, carries cheese produced at his family's dairy farm in the Forni Valley. Luigi Avantaggiato

A young pine tree emerges from a patch of glacial debris exposed by the melting of the Forni Glacier. As the glacier retreats, trees are advancing upslope.

A young pine tree emerges from a patch of glacial debris exposed by the melting of the Forni Glacier. As the glacier retreats, trees are advancing upslope. Luigi Avantaggiato

Battista Bellotti, 87, is one of the last remaining herdsmen in the Forni Valley.

Battista Bellotti, 87, is one of the last remaining herdsmen in the Forni Valley. Luigi Avantaggiato

The Forni Glacier at night, with the ice reflecting the moonlight.

The Forni Glacier at night, with the ice reflecting the moonlight. Luigi Avantaggiato

Luigi Avantaggiato is an Italian photographer. After earning a PhD in visual studies, he began working as a documentary photographer, with a strong interest in socio-anthropological and environmental transformations. See more at www.luigiavantaggiato.photography.